An Insider's Guide To The Amalfi Coast

With European summer upon us, your IG feeds are bound to be inundated with dreamy vistas of the Amalfi Coast. Pictures featuring Capri’s Faraglioni and long lunches at Da Adolfo are sure to make an appearance. After spending the past few months here, I’m letting you in on a few local secrets - An Insider’s Guide to the Amalfi Coast.

Whilst the Amalfi Coast is bustling with life during the summer, it’s the locals who stay here year round and endure the quiet winters here who truly know where to go.

For the best beachside restaurants that often don’t need to be reserved in advance, try La Tonnarella in Praiano or Da Teresa in Amalfi. These restaurants have boats where they can pick you up for free from Positano or Praiano to transport you to the restaurant.

Make sure you order the scialatielli ai frutti di Mare, which is the local pasta shape and resembles a thick hand cut egg noodle, tossed with a medley of local seafood - divine is an understatement to describe this dish. I’m guaranteed to order it almost every time I see it on a menu. That being said, the very best scialatielli ai frutti di mare is in the local seaside restaurant “Ristorante Nettuno.”

Another classic restaurant which locals frequent is Maria Grazia in Nerano - this restaurant is the birthplace of the “Spaghetti alla Nerano” which has become a specialty of the region, although technically in the Sorrento Peninsula and not the Amalfi Coast. A luscious sauce is made out of fried zucchini and a local cheese, provolone del Monaco.

Local B&Bs and villas in quiet pockets of the coast with beautiful views are Casa di Francesca in Praiano, or Villa Pandora in Maiori with a beautiful chequered pool, away from the crowds. Amalfi and Positano are the best known parts of the Coast, however it’s easy to stay in some of the smaller towns and take the ferry to Positano or Amalfi for the day.

The best way to see the coast is by the sea. I recommend hiring a boat for the day (my go to is Amalfi Coast Charter Boat) and visiting Capri or one of the seaside restaurants, followed by a swim.

I love shopping in local stores that have been in the family’s hands for generations. One of these is Da Francesca in Positano, which specialises in linen clothes that made the Amalfi coast famous back in the 60s and 70s. They still design and manufacture all their pieces in and around Positano which is so special. I also recommend popping into La Bottega di Brunella. For a quiet drink, I love going to Voc’e Notte sunset bar for the most magnificent sunset, or Rada in Positano.

The Pasticceria Sal de Riso in the diminutive town of Minori is famous amongst Italians for its sweets, including the typical lemon spiked dessert the Delizia al Limone which is a must try when visiting. On the note of sweets, there is an unassuming lemon cart high up in the mountains of the coast in a town called Tramonti, which locals all agree sells the best lemon granita - a specialty of the region. Antonio has operated the cart for over 30 years by the side of the road, serving passersby this refreshing dessert made of only three ingredients: water, lemon and sugar. For a truly unforgettable fine dining experience, The Monastero Santarosa is a hidden gem. A small Michelin restaurant lies within this recently converted monastery from the 17th century, with panoramic views over the coast and immaculately prepared meals that pay homage to the region.

There are many small and relaxing beaches and coves to swim in alongside the Amalfi coast. I love swimming in Fornillo, a small beach around the corner from the main beach in Positano which is much quieter and less chaotic. There are sun beds and restaurants close by you can have a pizza at for lunch, without having to take a boat somewhere for the day.

IN SUMMARY

Stay - Villa Pandora, Maiori

Lunch - La Tonnarella, Praiano

Dinner - Monastero Santarosa

Pizza - La Brace, Praiano

Drink - Voce e Notte Sunset Bar, Praiano

Shop - Da Francesca Positano

Sail - Amalfi Coast Charter Boat

Swimwear - Sommer Swim